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The SLIPFENCE is specifically designed for homeowners who want a warm and private wood fence, with the Stability and Endurance of an Aluminum Fence... AND... Simple to install.
When planning your Vertical SLIPFENCE installation, make sure to map out your fence posts exactly 8 feet apart from the center of each post to the center of the next post. or set the p[osts with 93" left between the posts.
Dig 8" diameter post holes 36” to 48” deep and fill the bottom with a few inches gravel if required… (colder climates may require a deeper post-hole).
Insert the Square Aluminum post into the hole and ensure that the post is at least 76” from the ground to the top of the post for a 6 foot fence.
Then pour concrete into the hole around the post to set, …and while the concrete is still wet, lay a stringer on the ground to make sure you have the proper spacing between your posts. Hold Post level on both X and Y Axis and make sure there is at least, (76” for a 6’ high fence), from ground to the top of post while concrete is drying. This helps eliminate trimming posts after fence is complete.
Repeat this same procedure for all posts in your fence project.
When the concrete has dried, fasten your first bottom bracket with the self-drilling screws provided, through the top oval screw hole in the bracket onto the first post making the top of the stringer seat of the bracket approximately 12” up from the ground.
If your project is following the Grade of the property and not stepping it is at this point where you would set up your string-line for bottom brackets and stringers to align all approximately 12” from ground.
Stepping: If you are stepping sections along a slope make sure to keep the bottom stringers level on each panel and 12” up from the ground.
Then fasten another bracket to one end of a stringer with nut and bolt just hand tight. Place the other open end of the stringer “U” shape down onto the first bracket seat and fasten with nut and bolt hand tight. Then level the stringer to the next post and fasten bracket to next post with a self-drilling screw through the top oval hole in bracket. Once stringer is level then tap in the remaining 3 screws through each bracket to post for a secure fit.
Once the bottom stringer is secured, (for a 6’ high fence), measure approximately 52” from the bottom stringer up the post and this is the position for the top bracket seat to be fastened, then repeat the same procedure for the top stringer as the bottom stringer, making sure the stringer is level and board holes in both top and bottom stringer are aligned and not offset.
Repeat these steps to secure and align all of your stringers to your fence posts in your fence project, and once all stringers are level or in line, tighten the bottom grip nuts on each bracket with a ½” wrench or socket.
Then, before inserting boards, either Lay a 2” x 6” board on the ground between two fence posts to ensure the proper lift of your fence-boards off of the ground or, measure and mark 9” down from the top of the board, this will mark the top of the top stringer and is a good final board height if your stringers are 52” apart and the bottom one is 12” off the ground.
Next slide in the fence-boards through the Board-holes in the top stringer then through the board holes in the bottom stringer, (leaving approximately 1.5” from the ground to the bottom of the fence-boards if you did not place a 2 x 6 on the ground, or pull the board up to your board mark, 9” from top of board to the top of the top stringer), and screw board to stringers through the holes).
Make sure that these Boards are fairly level at the top with each other or the Fence will not look as level as it should.
Once all of the boards in a section have been inserted, fasten the fence-boards to the Top and Bottom stringer with wood screws through the holes in the stringers and into each fence-board. Fasten two top screws and two bottom screws on each board before moving on to the next board to prevent stringer sag. DO NOT fasten all top screws and then all bottom screws in the panel or the weight of the boards will tend to sag the top stringer.
Another tip here before fastening all boards to stringers (if the boards wet and heavy), is to use either one long 8’ fence board, or a 6’ board, and slip it in the center of the stringer first and slam it onto the ground then let it rest on the ground and fasten it to the top and bottom stringer which essentially provides a center ‘leg” for the fence panel and keeps the stringers level while you insert all of the remaining boards. This center leg can either be trimmed down later or it can be left for stability if an 8’ board was used and can be released, lifted to the proper panel height and re secured, if a 6’ board was used.
Repeat this same procedure for all fence sections in the fence project.
Once all of your Fence-boards have been secured to Stringers, this is when you would install the Optional Aluminum Cap Rail.
Simply slip on the cap rail to the top of the boards in the finished fence panel and fasten with 2 wood screws on each end on one side of the panel and one screw on the opposite side right in the middle making sure that you are drilling into a fence board on all.
There are 4 extra self drilling screws in each stringer bag that were used to fasten the brackets to the posts that can be used here to drill though the cap rail and into the top of the fence boards and fasten the Cap rail to the top of the fence board. OR simply drill a 3/16” hole with a metal drill bit through the cap rail, (one on both ends on one side and one in the center on the other side), and then use the Slipfence wood screws to fasten the cap rail to the top of the fence boards. Either will work.
Tap on the “self-tightening” Aluminum Post cap with rubber mallet to all Posts.
Post caps should sit approximately 2” above the top of the fence boards for a nice clean look. Posts can be easily cut down with a metal blade on your saw if necessary.
If posts need to be cut down, a metal blade on a circular saw can be used on one side of the post and then finish with a metal blade on reciprocating saw to finish. OR if only a reciprocating saw is available, the first few cuts should be done with a hacksaw to provide a blade guide and help eliminate the reciprocating blade from jumping and chopping at the initial cut of the post.
Gates can be added anywhere in the TAHOE Slip Fence by customer building your gate on site with the Slipfence Gate kit, (SF2-GK100), Instructions for the Slipfence Gate kit are enclosed in each kit and fasten easily to a Square Aluminum Fencepost.